Showcase Olympus 38/1.8 Pen-F

WNG

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That's what a lens showcase is all about. :)
This Pen-F lens is my favorite for my APS-C Sony.
 

kevistopheles

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You know what's funny? I went to the start of thread trying to figure out who started it...and it was ME o_O. I gave up on this lens a while back because I stupidly sold my copy and the three copies I've picked up to replace it have all been trashed. The lack of parts makes picking one up a bit more problematic.
 

WNG

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LOL! Regarding this lens, yeah, they are susceptible to haze and fungus etch. I would like to find a prestine copy myself, but they are also bloody expensive then.
Aside, I wasn't aware this lens was radioactive, if it wasn't mentioned by you! Fortunately, it's VERY low compared to other models. Been sitting next to mine for almost a year, 15 hours per day! And even left it attached to the the camera body. Luckily, no damage to the sensor that I can detect. Well, if I start to glow n the dark or sprout a third eye, blame these lenses! :D
 

bobbill

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The Zuiko is radioactive, like the rare-earth Takumars? Whoa! Had no clue...

What are the copies called?

Sven's (#16) Trees, is fine...shows off some features of lens...
 

WNG

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The Zuiko is radioactive, like the rare-earth Takumars? Whoa! Had no clue...

What are the copies called?

Sven's (#16) Trees, is fine...shows off some features of lens...
Yes, there are a number of Olympus Zuiko lenses that are radioactive. The Pentax Takumar models that are radioactive, weren't using rare-earths, which are not radioactive.
The lenses that are radioactive is due to the doping of the glass with Thorium. That includes the Takumars, Yashinons, Zuikos, Mamiya/Sekors, Minoltas, Canons, from Japan.

When I stated copies, I was referring to the same model, not a copy-cat version or one sold under a different model#. I meant a 'batch' of them and finding one with no defects.
 

bobbill

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Really! Figured Thorium was rare earth radioactive dirt...de nada!

I have but one Zuiko and will keep it far from me gones...but may keep (lens) if goes over Nikkor when I compare, with me eye...

So, a Zuiko lens is really a Z, no matter what...? Just being anal.

The copy-cat part got me thinking...I do know me one Z is legit. did not know about exceptions...I kinds shot more than checked.

I do appreciate the "heads-up!"

Makes me love my Nikkors all the more "kewl"...and will put my lead-apron in trash....ho-ho!

pp
 

sven karma

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Top pic, water, upper third, (right side under "Gallery" in the original post (OP)...a vertical line in image seems to extend to water...reflection? I have one and hard to chose between it and the larger Nikkor/with adapter, it is that good...to me!

Just curious.

Interesting this thread is the only Zuiko 38 1.8...right handy lens that does. Have to compare to 1.8 Nikkor and other Nikkors...have both so its decisions-decisions...
I think the vertical line is the edge of a light shower out to sea, so yeah reflection.

Sadly, I've had to stop using mine because the aperture ring has gone wrong. Not quite stuck but getting there.
 

WNG

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Really! Figured Thorium was rare earth radioactive dirt...de nada!

I have but one Zuiko and will keep it far from me gones...but may keep (lens) if goes over Nikkor when I compare, with me eye...

So, a Zuiko lens is really a Z, no matter what...? Just being anal.

The copy-cat part got me thinking...I do know me one Z is legit. did not know about exceptions...I kinds shot more than checked.

I do appreciate the "heads-up!"

Makes me love my Nikkors all the more "kewl"...and will put my lead-apron in trash....ho-ho!

pp
Don't worry, not all of the Olympus Zuiko lenses are radioactive, most aren't. The few I'm aware of are: the mentioned Pen-F 38-f/1.8, the Pen-F Zuiko 40-f/1.4, the OM Zuiko 50-f/1.4 'silver-nose'.
Yes, Zuiko is always spelled with a 'Z'. If you see a 'Suiko', leave it on the shelf. :)
Zuiko is the name of the lens division of Olympus. Like Nikon uses Nikkor for their lenses, Yashica used Yashinon, or Leica using Leitz.
Nikkors are great. But I think they too had one or two models that used Thorium. :)
 

mingus2112

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You know what's funny? I went to the start of thread trying to figure out who started it...and it was ME o_O. I gave up on this lens a while back because I stupidly sold my copy and the three copies I've picked up to replace it have all been trashed. The lack of parts makes picking one up a bit more problematic.
I've done this. Mostly when researching a topic and then letting my interest die - sometimes for over a year or more. I end up back in the same thread years later and find some useful information only to realize that the information is from my own post!

I know what you mean about this lens - I've wanted one for quite some time for two reasons: 1) It's small (and the adapter is small) and 2) It's a great focal length. It doesn't hurt that it's well regarded. The problem is that I have yet to find a good copy to even get burned on!

-James
 

WNG

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I think the vertical line is the edge of a light shower out to sea, so yeah reflection.

Sadly, I've had to stop using mine because the aperture ring has gone wrong. Not quite stuck but getting there.
Don't worry, this lens can be disassembled and serviced rather easily. I recall being able to quickly degrease the aperture blades, relube the helicoid threads, clean each element of any haze and fungus and even relube the ball detent of the aperture ring. A few simple lens tools, q-tips, alcohol, lighter fluid, and grease, plus a few hours and the lens works smooth as butter. There are many you-tube videos tutoring how to take apart old lenses.
 

kevistopheles

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Don't worry, this lens can be disassembled and serviced rather easily. I recall being able to quickly degrease the aperture blades, relube the helicoid threads, clean each element of any haze and fungus and even relube the ball detent of the aperture ring. A few simple lens tools, q-tips, alcohol, lighter fluid, and grease, plus a few hours and the lens works smooth as butter. There are many you-tube videos tutoring how to take apart old lenses.
Yeah, about that...I’m pretty handy with tools and have successfully taken apart and clean my old film cameras and a few lenses and the Pen 38 was the no cake walk when I tried it. You’re clearly a better man than I am.
 

bobbill

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You guys who can fix lenses have my respect.

Those old Pen F Zuiko lenses must be very well designed.

After I acquired the 1.8, I learned one can carefully pull the front right forward to turn it top-to-bottom and replace it so the bottom becomes the top for easier viewing.

And it all says "intricate, beware." So I don't push it. Need the correct tools too, which only makes sense if one does lots of lenses.

I let the esteemed John White AIS one Nikkor, after encountering an intimidating stuck screw. Touchy things...and radioactive besides? Youser!
 

bobbill

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I have used the 38mm Pen F 1.8 in comparison shoots with other lenses using same settings and distance, and the lens seems to underexpose. I can compensate for it, but I wonder. ???
 

WNG

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I have used the 38mm Pen F 1.8 in comparison shoots with other lenses using same settings and distance, and the lens seems to underexpose. I can compensate for it, but I wonder. ???
What are you comparing it to? You do realize this is a 1/2 frame lens. The Pen-F camera only exposed 1/2 of a normal 35mm exposure to double the number of shots per roll.
It can be used with APS-C because it just covers the area of the sensor. It should be compared to other APS-C lenses and not full-frame lenses. Plus, settings and F-stops don't translate to equal T-stops. Each lens can have a different T-stop and that would require exposure compensation.
 

sven karma

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@WNG what are these lens tools of which you speak?Today/last night was the first time I tried my somewhat crocked 38/1.8 on the A7s and I really should give it some tlc. Strangely, the adapter doesn't twist in properly, unlike any of my other adapters that have migrated from aps to ff:

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WNG

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@WNG what are these lens tools of which you speak?Today/last night was the first time I tried my somewhat crocked 38/1.8 on the A7s and I really should give it some tlc. Strangely, the adapter doesn't twist in properly, unlike any of my other adapters that have migrated from aps to ff:
The essentials are a lens spanner and a set of precision screwdrivers. The former is available for $10-15 USD on ebay. There are several styles, but it should have pointed and flat contacts.
And the latter at any reputable hardware store. The set needs to have cross-point and flat blade drivers.
A lens element vacuum suction cup holder is an optional tool, to lift out and place lens elements, but I simply use a roll of quality painter's masking tape. It doesn't leave residue and the tape lifts the element easily and doubles to mark the proper end for reassembly.
A set of label ring removers is another optional toolset, but one can use tape over a cap to grip the ring to unscrew it. Or cut a rubber ball in half to match the lens' diameter.

For cleaning, cotton swabs, and cotton rounds (used to remove makeup). Lens tissue isn't necessary. Wooden tooth picks.
Liquids: alcohol/ammonia glass cleaning solution. Aqueous lens cleaning fluid (for final step). White gas/lighter fluid. Acetone.
The glass cleaner is the initial step to remove fungus, oil haze, dirt. It'll leave residue. So, follow up with a 2nd cleaning with dedicated lens cleaning fluid. It's usually not strong enough for tough stains.
White gas/lighter fluid is ideal for degreasing. I use it for aperture blades. It leaves no residue, evaporates off clean. It has no additives like pump gas. Naptha can be substituted.
Acetone is for dissolving an thread locker you may encounter. Some lenses have used it internally. 30-sec after applying with a cotton swab and the assemblies twist apart freely.
You can use your wife's nail polish remover if you don't have any. ;)
Oh, have a nice clear working surface, maybe a cotton towel spread on the table top to keep falling parts from damage and bouncing away, like mini steel balls and screws.
And a spare plastic ice cube tray or similar to place and separate screws and small parts.

As for why the adapter didn't twist onto the A7S, that is because some of the early NEX adapters were for the metal-plastic lens mounts, and won't fit onto the thicker all-metal lens mounts of the A7 2nd gens+. Your A7S may have an all-metal mount since it was released after the original A7.
Don't force it on there if it won't go on all the way. The early adapters will bind and gouge the camera mount. Not compatible and you're going to need an updated adapter that's A7II compatible. Most Fotasy adapters I've owned are.
 

sven karma

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I like the ice cube tray suggestion :2thumbs:
I actually have most of those items to hand. It's just that, knowing what happens when I e.g. disassemble a laptop, I have a mental picture of self staring at jumble of bits of metal and glass with not a clue how to put them back together. Couple of screws left over after the laptop job, no pasa nada, bit of lens left over hmm ...
 

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