I recently bought a used A6000 body with the kit lens. I currently also have a E-PL2 M4/3 and a Nikon V1 system. But I've never used adaptors on either of the systems. I am thinking to start learning on the NEX/Alpha system. I think I've settled on the Minolta MC/MD lenses as my adaptive lens stragtegy. Can someone please provide a beginner's explanation of the steps to getting proper focus and metering using these "dumb" adaptors with no metering or AF? My understanding is this, I use Aperture-priority mode, set my aperture on the lens manually to whatever I want, use focus peaking to get my focus right, and then snap the picture. Am I getting this right? The one important thing I want to know is, will my A6000 give me the right shutter speed based on my manual aperture setting?
That is correct. Yes, it will make sure you enable "release without lens attached" option. Minoltas are a great choice btw but maybe I'm a little biased only gap is for uwa. Also, welcome and congrats on the purchase
You can also use shutter priority mode, that will work just like manual mode with a regular lens, except you set the aperture on the lens and the shutter speed on the camera. If you turn on auto ISO the camera will then adjust the ISO, it you don't you'll most likely get an over- or underexposed image.
Well... I set the metering to center weighted (that's just my preference). Like Nick says, make sure release without lens attached is set to on. I shoot aperture priority and set exposure compensation to suit the camera. For instance my Fuji tended to over expose. Live view will show you an accurate view in the LCD so it'll be easier to nail focus at wider apertures (although not too bad when stopped down) Focus peaking relies on areas of contrast so focus peaking doesn't necessarily tell you what is in focus. You should always use focus assist to (magnify) to double check. Focus peaking is great but there is a bit of a learning curve to get used to what you are seeing and what that means as far as focus. Focus peaking has three colors and three strengths settings. Which color you choose is matter of preference, I like red as I find it easier to see. I know a number of folks prefer yellow. The strengths settings are low. medium and high. Low is more accurate but harder to see where high is more visible less accurate. I like medium. Focus peaking is much more visible through the LCD than the EVF. One way to maximize visibility is to shoot RAW and set the creative style to BW. That gives you a BW EVF image but the RAW files are still in color. I find BW in the EVF to super easy to see and works particularly well in low light. You can also pump up the contrast and brightness of the creative style and it'll reflect in the EVF On an a6000 I would set the fn button next to the shutter as focus assist. Some lenses focus peak better than others. I have a pretty large collection of Minolta MC/MD lenses and how well they focus peak varies. In my experience higher contrast means better peaking. Don't shy away from MD zooms. I have three of them and they are absolutely terrific to shoot with. Here is my Flickr feed. I have been shooting almost exclusively with adapted lenses for the past few years.
I also use Shutter Mode. Set the aperture on the lens, then feel free to adjust the shutter speed on the camera.
Thanks for everyone's replies! I've just ordered a FotoGiox adaptor and it should arrive on Wednesday. Now, onto looking for MC/MD lenses! BTW, how do you guys find using manual focus to take pictures of people on the streets? Do you find them almost impossible? Or yes it is possible but needs a lot of practice?
for street photography with manual lenses, you will have to zone focus and choose an apeture that will give you enough depth of field to give you the sharpness. I would suggest find a 24mm lens (36mm equivelant) and set the f stop around ƒ5.6 to ƒ11 and let the camera choose the shutter speed.
Thanks. I am happy to be here....part of the NEX/Alpha family now. Can't afford those fast Zeiss AF zooms and primes so I hope that I get good at manual focus.
So I've heard. I think there is still a time that I will appreciate the autofocus. If this MF thing works out fine, I might also get a MC/MD to M43 adaptor too so that I can use it with my EPL2. Although I really should upgrade that body. EPL2 has been around a long time. And no focus peaking
It's a bit unfortunate, because when you shoot in A mode with legacy lenses the main dial doesn't do anything. It would be great if while shooting legacy lenses the main dial could be reassigned to be exposure compensation. The rear dial could then be ISO. Or maybe that is possible somehow?
Turns out that while you can't assign the dials to be whatever you like, you can actually swap the functions of the main dial and rear dial. So if you are using legacy lenses a lot it might be a smart way to go. Make the main dial exposure compensation instead of apeture in A mode, it's easier to get to quickly. Combine that with zebras and it's easy to quickly dial in the best possible exposure.
So I've picked up a Minolta 28mm f/3.5 and a 50mm f/1.7 for about USD$70 today. Have the adaptor as well. Going to try this out. Another question, I am looking for a wide angle on the crop sensor. But the Minolta 16mm-ish MD lenses are a bit more expensive than I want to spend. I know there are other brands that make the same SR mount. What are some of these brands that I should search for? I am hoping that these "off-brands" will be cheaper.
Not saying this to dissapoint you, but I think you spend a little more for these two lenses, especially since you're in the US where stuff are always cheaper... Wide angle legacy MF lenses from the film era are a little difficult task on a crop sensor as you already found out. Since you're looking for something wallet-friendly, how about sony's native 16 2.8 pancake?
I actually live in Toronto, Canada but yes I think I paid a little more than I could if I waited and find better deals. However, the seller was willing to drive to me instead of me going there. About the Sony native 16mm, I've read reviews that it's not a great lense in terms of distortion and overall IQ. How I've seen them used for about $150 so it's even cheaper than finding a 16mm MD lense on eBay. I want to try to zone focus for street using a MF so I still want to look for a cheap prime....although ultra wide primes are not that cheap I guess. I have to sacrifice....maybe the 16mm Sony will do for now.
I'm not a pixel peeper. I've seen excellent photos from the often criticized sel16 2.8 - also check out the sample lens thread here in the forum. I always believed that often its not the lens but the actual photographer
Sorry, late to the party on this one. New on the block. I'm from Toronto as well, and like you, looking for a wide angle MF lens. I have GAS, picking up FD glass, but luckily already have a nice crop of MD glass. How did you do on finding a wide angle lens?
