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May I hear about your adapted "sleepers"?


TalkEmount Hall of Famer
Aug 12, 2014
Arrid Zone-A, USA
Real Name
I gravitated to vintage/legacy manual-focus lenses after purchasing my a6000. They were still cheap then and a lot of fun discovering their character. I ended up buying an A7II for the purchase of shooting them. And don't own any native FE mount AF lenses. My style of photography doesn't require the latest tech, so the manual lenses have sufficed.
The journey has been a long one with diving into websites, forums, ebay, craigslist, thrift stores, and garage sales. Also learning to disassemble and clean them. Also have over 2 dozen radioactive Thoriated lenses as well. Too numerous to list all my favorites, and sample photos in this thread!
You can check out my collection and opinions of each lens here:

Some brands I gravitated to are Asahi Pentax, Vivitar (Komine), Yashica (Tomioka), Minolta, Tamron. I started as a prime fanatic, but these days I find a Tamron SP 01A 35-80mm zoom seeing the most time. It's a zoom that thinks it's a prime. I have a number of Tamron AdaptAll lenses that are worthy for a place in one's camera bag.

As for haze, I've found a lot of Tokina made lenses (including the ones they made for other brands, ie. Vivitar, Konica, etc.) were susceptible to a lot of haze and fungi. The haze issue plagued a number of their line straight out of the factory. AT-X zooms. I believe it was a process defect of the coatings. I've had mixed luck with removing fungus damage from Tokina lenses. There is more a likelihood of permanent etch damage than compared to other brands. One of my Olympus Zuiko Pen-F lenses did suffer permanent fungus damage though.
Most haze isn't removable, it's more of a coating permanently damaged. I've tried to polish two or three Tokina lenses with cerium oxide. I got the marks and haze off, but I don't think the lens was as sharp. I recommend avoiding hazed lenses. Fungus contaminated lenses have a better chance of restoring if you get to them in time.

As for Thorium-yellowed lenses....the fastest method I've had success with was to use a spare automotive HID headlight/foglight bulb as UV source. A mercury vapor lamp will also work.
The high intensity removed all signs of yellowing from a Pentax Super Takumar 35mm f/2 in a day or two. I don't recommend leaving a lens in bright sunlight unless it's a cold winter day.
The IR heats up the lens body too much, can cause lubricants to outgas/evaporate.
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TalkEmount Regular
Jul 17, 2020
east coast central
Real Name
William the Crankier
I gravitated to vintage/legacy manual-focus lenses after purchasing my a6000. They were still cheap then and a lot of fun discovering their character...

Ho-leeeee Mack-er-al, WNG. A veritable Vatican Library you've built there; Mon Dieu; My Own Private Wikipedia of Adaptation. Superlatives fail; bookmarked - who would not? Damned near encyclopedic; a public utility. With examples.

Some critical insights, too. One aside you'd made earlier gave me to understand that I'd gotten the lesser of the Tak 200s (the f/4), and why that was so.

Also interesting were references en passant concerning who had actually made which specific lenses or lines under someone else's name. Third-party manufacturing; Komine? Tomioka? I'm thinking that there is no similarly-exhaustive guidebook to those mysteries, that the knowledge can only be garnered piece-by-piece.

Bravo. I shall look in often, as I am sure many do.
  • Appreciate
Reactions: WNG


TalkEmount Veteran
Oct 27, 2017
Plain old manual and common Nikkor 1.8/50 (pancake) and Nikkor OC 2.0/35. Low cost winners.


TalkEmount Veteran
Oct 22, 2017
Real Name
Canon nfd 50mm f/1.4, Nikon 35mm f/1.4, and 135mm f/2.0 these aren't cheap but they're sharp wide open, and have smooth creamy bokeh. At least my copies.

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