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Infra red with an unconverted camera.

Tony1939

TalkEmount Rookie
Joined
Jun 3, 2020
Messages
10
Location
New Zealand
Real Name
Tony Warren
I have been intruiged by infra red for a long time and have tried various ways to achieve the effect through software, never with wholly satisfactory results. I came across a bargain 720 filter so decided to try it out on my standard, unconverted A3000. Initial tests showed that the sensor 'sees' infra red without too long an exposure but a tripod is essential. The main problem I had was focus. Using a Tamron Adaptall 17mm on a Lens Turbo showed that the focus scale is way out with this combination and also the lens focusses past infinity. In addition, the evf quite quickly heats up and goes opaque so I resorted to initially focussing without the filter then taking multiple shots at different focus settings, selecting the best for processing. RAW files produced the best results, swapping the red and blue channels, desaturating and then applying a curves adjustment and sharpening. These are a selection of my early results.
 

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Petrochemist

TalkEmount Regular
Joined
Oct 19, 2018
Messages
129
Location
North Essex UK
Real Name
Mike
Some great results!
I've never had issues with my EVFs overheating when shooting IR. With Sony I've used a converted body, and I've shot IR with standard & converted MFT bodies without issues (as well as Pentax DSLRs but they don't have an EVF and the model I used most didn't even have liveview).
With fast lenses, good light & moderately high ISO I've usually been able to shoot unmodified cameras handheld. Now I have converted bodies I only use the others when I'm after long exposures 60s can be managed without needing an ND filter :)

Focus should be perfect on the EVF or rear screen, the overheating issue sounds like a fault to me, but framing, turning off the camera to cool then turning it back on to focus might be a reasonable work around. Alternately you can focus the old fashioned way Focusing in visual, fit the filter then move the distance marker that's on the visual line to the IR one should correct for focus shift. IIRC all my Adaptall2 lenses have IR focus marks (I've only got 2 handy both zooms - which have a red line next to an R in amidst the DOF marks).

If you're totally desaturating the images the red/blue channel swap is unnecessary. It generally works well for false colour IR (it normally gives blue skies & golden foliage with the right CWB), but makes no difference if you're removing all the colour info.
 

Tony1939

TalkEmount Rookie
Joined
Jun 3, 2020
Messages
10
Location
New Zealand
Real Name
Tony Warren
Some great results!
I've never had issues with my EVFs overheating when shooting IR. With Sony I've used a converted body, and I've shot IR with standard & converted MFT bodies without issues (as well as Pentax DSLRs but they don't have an EVF and the model I used most didn't even have liveview).
With fast lenses, good light & moderately high ISO I've usually been able to shoot unmodified cameras handheld. Now I have converted bodies I only use the others when I'm after long exposures 60s can be managed without needing an ND filter :)

Focus should be perfect on the EVF or rear screen, the overheating issue sounds like a fault to me, but framing, turning off the camera to cool then turning it back on to focus might be a reasonable work around. Alternately you can focus the old fashioned way Focusing in visual, fit the filter then move the distance marker that's on the visual line to the IR one should correct for focus shift. IIRC all my Adaptall2 lenses have IR focus marks (I've only got 2 handy both zooms - which have a red line next to an R in amidst the DOF marks).

If you're totally desaturating the images the red/blue channel swap is unnecessary. It generally works well for false colour IR (it normally gives blue skies & golden foliage with the right CWB), but makes no difference if you're removing all the colour info.
Thanks for the comments. The evf problem may be more to do with the dark image and the relatively low quality of the finder on my A3000 (and my eyesight maybe), which has rather low res finder and screen - built down to a price I think. I can focus on the screen but with the 17mm it doesn't exactly snap into focus and the image is very noisy.

For some reason, the scale on my Tamron doesn't seem to be accurate on my set-up so I have been taking several shots at varying focus settings to make sure I get a useable one. I use the lens on a Zhongyi Lens Turbo II so that might be affecting things.

I have been experimenting with various approaches and, as you say, the channel swap is not necessary for a mono output. In fact, as simple approach as possible is giving me the best results, e.g. desaturating, adjusting levels and sharpening in Apple's Preview program give remarkable good results.

Currently exploring a software approach in Affinity Photo and have also bought some Rollei IR film to try in my F801 for comparison.
 

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